Green stuff how long to set

The first stage of using Green Stuff is mixing the putty together. If you are working with Green Stuff Reel , then this is fairly simple — cut off the required amount of putty and then mix the reel together until the yellow filler and blue hardener have turned green.

There should be no streaks in the mixed putty and you will be able to feel that it is correctly mixed when it begins to feel sticky to touch and is starting to stick to your fingers. Green Stuff Reel is manufactured to give a mix ratio. A mix is suitable for most tasks such as gap filling, conversions and sculpting. Sometimes though it can be desirable to adjust the mix ratio, depending on the job at hand.

Green Stuff Stick supplies the filler and hardener as separate components, which gives the user greater control over the mixing process.

Increasing the amount of blue hardener in the ratio will lead to a harder, faster-curing putty. It will be a darker green in colour and less sticky. This ratio of mixing is used for jobs when stronger putty is required. Some model makers will mix a ratio of three parts blue to one part yellow when they need a super-firm putty. For more detailed work, you should increase the ratio of yellow filler to blue hardener. Mixing both together creates a green putty which hardens at room temperature.

By mixing varying amounts of blue and yellow together you can create a softer stickier yellowy green mix or a harder, crisper edged, faster drying bluey green mix. When not in use Green Stuff should be stored in an air tight container. Green stuff can go off after time and become hard and difficult to mix. Greenstuff contains epoxy constituents so it is harmful if swallowed. It is also an eye irritant.

Use your knife to cut away the piece down the centre where the putty joins. This has actually started to have the chemical reaction and is hard. Mixing this in with your greenstuff will leave you with bits of hard lumps in your greenstuff. Throw this piece away. Mix the two remaining pieces together. You might want to wet your fingers to stop it sticking to you. You will need some sculpting tools. You will need a wet tool. I have used water in this example but other great options include olive oil, vaseline or KY Jelly.

Using a pointy wet tool, make small indentations. Push them slightly to create movement to the fur. Find a smooth, non-porous, clean area to work on. Ceramic white tiles are perfect. Mix your putty together into a ball.

Leave it to semi-cure for an hour or two. Make sure the blade is wet. Use the non-sharp part of your blade to press a line into the greenstuff to resemble a join in the fabric.

Take one of the Green Stuff off-cuts and cut a strip. Remember make sure your surface and tools are always wet. Squirt a blob of super glue onto an old mixing palette. Use a pin or the tip of your knife to carefully lift one of the stitches, gently dab it in the super glue blob and apply it to the banner. Repeat for all stitches. Leave the banner to cure properly 24 hours is fine. Then repeat the process for the other side. These simple techniques can be used to create all manner of different things.

You can use the banner trick to create straps, saddles, harnesses and armour! It just depends upon how thick you roll it out. If you prefer round rivets roll out a thin sausage, leave to cure and then slice up into thin discs and glue those on.

You can change the size of the rivets based on the diameter you roll out the Green Stuff sausage. First I glob super technical term here the Liquid Green Stuff into the gap. I had to do this a few times to get the gap filled as you see it here.

I want the brush a bit wet for blending in the Liquid Green Stuff. I blend by placing the brush below the gap I filled and pulling down gently. The brush should glide, and not be so firmly on there that it just removes the Liquid Green Stuff. I do this all along the gap, and with the wet brush it thins out the Liquid Green Stuff the further from the gap. I then do the same above the gap: wet brush, pull from the gap upwards to thin it out. See, the lower half of the head face , sits a bit higher than the upper half so I want to pull towards that point, and in turn move the excess Liquid Green Stuff into that point.

So, I place my wet brush above the gap on the upper half of the head and gently pull down towards the face over the gap. Of course, a good light is something you want in general for this hobby too. For what I am doing here, 5 minutes to dry is plenty. The Liquid Green Stuff will shrink some when it dries so this is expected. The model is moving and there will be natural crease there from the movement, so I really just want to make sure the gap itself is filled.

Priming the model is where the real test is. Once everything is a single color you can see how the blending worked out. Then when you look at the side you can see a small gap still. Normally this is something I would be OK with. So, I use a brush on primer for the area. I use the GW Imperial Primer, but any brush on primer will do.

However, like I said, once this guy is all painted up it will look fine. The one big downside to Liquid Green Stuff is that the pot will dry out on your — without fail. Generally it takes a few months after opening, so be forewarned.

I know it might seem like a lot of work repeating the process over and over. However, once you get good with it then it only really takes around 30 seconds each layer. If you work on a group of models at once, like the unit I showed, then once you get to the last model then first model will be nearly dried, and you can just run down the line again.

Going the traditional method of Green Stuff gap filling would let you get it right in one sitting. However, then you have a longer dry time before you can prime, and usually excess Green Stuff that gets wasted.

Both methods have their use, and I find Liquid Green Stuff to be great for small organic things like this. Liquid Green Stuff is on my list of must-have hobby supplies. You should see what else is on the list. The article covers everything from the things you really need to have, as well as some upgrades for down the road to make hobbying easier. I hope you found this useful. I enjoy doing these tutorials so if you have something in mind please let me know.

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed. Yeah this stuff is great, I use it all the time. A good tip I have learnt though is to use poly cement to fill the large gaps, which can be scraped or covered over with the green stuff if needed.